Entry 11 - High Dynamic Range

Ever found that when your taking pictures of the clouds - or a sunset - that the sky is the properly exposed and the land is pitch black? Or that you can clearly see the green trees, but the sky is a washed out white?

That's why HDR Processing was created. Because often one exposure setting will only do part of the image justice, and the rest will be under, or over, exposed. With an HDR processor you can take three pictures, and the program will mold them together so that every part of the image is exposed just right.

Do you really think this winning image that landed the cover of "Outdoor Photographer" magazine could have been made with out HDR?

No. Come on, think about it. You point your camera at the flowers, the sky would be way washed out. Point it at the sky, the flowers will be wreathed in shadows, they just won't have that glow.

How about an example of my own?









Photomatix Pro is reputed to be the best HDR software out there. You can download the free version easily, but the full version costs $99.

The free version can do everything the full version can, except it will leave a "Photomatix" watermark on your photo.

Example:

 + +

Combining the three pictures above in the Photomatix Pro, I came upwith the following image:

Here we have an obviously superior image, but it is unusable without payment do to the watermarks. 

There are several free-ware HDR programs out there too, including Picturenaut and Luminance. I haven't found these to be as good, but I'll post again if and when I decide that they are indeed a stable alternative to Photomatix.

Entry 10 - Fireworks!

Oddly enough, the tip I'm going to give you for shooting next years fireworks, is the exact opposite of what Scott Wittenburg will tell you to do in his podcast, Photography 101. Now, I love Scott's podcast, and that's exactly why I followed his advice at the beginning of this years fireworks. Let's just say it didn't work for me.
So I'll give you some alternative advice. Scott says to use a shutter speed around 7 seconds. You can watch Scott's podcast if you want to, but I'm gonna tell you to use 1/10th of a second, and play around with ISO and aperture so you get the brightness you want. I used ISO 400 and f/4.5/

Entry 9 - Of Flowers

My big tip for macro photography with a DSLR (unless you have a macro lens) is ZOOM IN. You cannot focus very close to the flower, so zoom in. I used this technique in all three photos. Also, don't be afraid to use manual focus sometimes.

Entry 8 - Finding Creative Shots where you wouldn't Expect Them

The pictures in this entry are less striking than the ones in other entries. However, in their own, more subtle,  way, they are just as interesting. These photos were taken in an art supply store. The lesson to be learned here is: if the setting you are in isn't particularly striking, you must think to take shots that are more creative,  artistic.

The entry to a photo gallery. What's important about this picture isn't the exposure settings, which I usually put below, but the white balance. The shots were turning out too warm, so I changed the WB settings to Tungsten, where they turned out too blue. So I then tried Florescent, where I got this frame.

I like how this picture turned out, with the double reflection. I also like the soft colors, which are pleasing to look at.

Camera: Canon EOS Rebel XS

Shutter: 1/25sec

Aperture: f/5.6

ISO: 400

Focal Length: 55mm

Canon EOS Rebel XS

1/40th sec

f/3.5

ISO 400

18mm

This is one of my favorites. I took three pictures, but the angle of this one had the most personality.

1/40s

f/3.5

ISO 200

18mm

Last but not least, a picture of some paints. I hope you like this one as much as I do.